Memphis' 2021 restaurant scene: Wild, complicated, and raw

When someone opens a business, there's a certain measure of hope. Hope that people will like it, hope that it does well.

In other words, scanning the number of new restaurants that opened in 2021, there's plenty of hope.

The year got off to a shaky start for restaurants already pummeled by 2020's COVID-related restrictions. A snow storm caused the closure of most spots, which was then followed by a boil water advisory. Shelby County health officer Dr. Bruce Randolph announced that restaurants would have to close due to the advisory. Two hours later, that directive was reversed. The matter was deemed a "miscommunication."

But let's move on to happier news, shall we?

Coffee and beer always near

Downtown Madison Avenue is becoming quite the coffee hub. First, Memphis Chess Club — the club's headquarters and cafe — opened in fall 2020. That was followed by The Crazy Gander in June 2021. The idea behind it is to make grabbing coffee easy for everyone. Just down the street, Boycott Coffee opened in October. This is coffee with heart, with an eye toward ethical and sustainable practices.

And, over on Court Square, Good Morning Gorgeous opened in May. This small and stylish shop is in partnership with a music studio in that same space and aims to serve the best of the best.

In Cordova, Team Car Cafe opened in June, with Ethnos Coffee Roasters taking on the beans. And in the Heights neighborhood, there's Not a Coffee Shop, which was opened by Bartholomew Jones of CxffeeBlack. He told the Memphis Business Journal, "We're not calling it a coffee shop. Because coffee shops come with a lot of negative [connotations], especially in regards to gentrification. We're really just trying to provide quality coffee education in our neighborhood. So, we've opened like a coffee center or coffee studio. It's not a coffee shop."

Soul & Spirits, the husband-and-wife-owned Uptown brewery, finally opened in October after a COVID-induced delay. Ghost River made big news with the announcement that it was opening a beer garden (the best type of garden) on Beale Street. It opened this summer, in conjunction with Flying Sobie's. Hampline Brewing Co. has deep Memphis roots — right down to the bear on the logo, which is based on Natch, the bear that launched the Memphis Zoo. The brewery opened early this year. And, opening soon is Urban Consequence Brewing Co. in Cooper Young. This brewery is a continuation of founder Jeff Sable's long family history of brewing beer.

Dip in the market

After rumors spread that Pancho's was closing its remaining restaurants, it was announced that the Pancho's cheese dip brand had been sold to Sabrosura Foods LLC, a Minnesota-based Hispanic food distributor. The idea behind the move, according to a press release, was "rapid expansion nationwide across the mass, club and grocery channels." Arbo'sAndrew Arbogast's cheese dip based on his father's recipe, has been making a name for itself on the dip scene. The brand recently expanded into the Nashville market.

One day, we will all be vegan

Vegan and Memphis? Never say never. Plant Based Heat, a vegan restaurant, opened on Highland earlier this year. It offers vegan comfort food. And nearby, also on Highland, is Guru City Vegan, a partnership between Daudi McLean, aka the Vegan Guru, and Vince "City" McMillan. It's set to open very soon. In Downtown, the Raw Girls have set up shop, offering coffees and wines, along with their signature raw, vegan foods and juices.

Burgers, chicken, barbecue, etc.

A Wahlburgers finally opened in Memphis. But this one has a wild twist. It was announced this summer that Wahlburgers Wild would be opening in the Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid. The restaurant, offering wild game dishes such as a bison burger and venison chili, is the first of its kind and the first Wahlburgers in Tennessee.

It was announced early this year that Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken would be opening in Germantown but closing up shop in Collierville. And Gus's president Wendy McCrory had something else up her sleeve. Last spring, it was announced that Gus's was buying Leonard's Pit Barbecue. The decision was partly for sentimental reasons, McCrory said. She wanted to keep Leonard's — which was founded in 1922 — up and running. And MBJ took notice of McCrory's success, naming her Executive of the Year in the 2021 Small Business Awards. In similar news, cousins David and Judd Tashie took over ownership of La Baguette and Bryant's Breakfast earlier this year. Of Bryant's, Judd Tashie said, "There's so much that goes along with having a place that's been around that long and has that loyal of a customer base. I never underestimate the power of nostalgia."

And Tandem Restaurant Partners continued to do what Tandem does — reviving flagging properties. In this case, the group, led by Tony and Stephanie Westmoreland and Cullen Kent, took over Front St. Deli and Hernando's Hideaway.

On the move

Rebecca and Jason Severs, the owners of Bari Ristorante Enoteca, were feeling boxed in at their original location at 22 S. Cooper, near Overton Square. They had wanted to expand but there was no way to do it. So they moved out of their home of nearly 19 years to a new location just down the street, at 524 S. Cooper.

Bala Tounkara opened his West African restaurant Bala's Bistro in 2019. The spot, on Raines Road, was small, and almost immediately, Tounkara's thoughts turned to relocating or opening a second location. In the end, he relocated. He moved Bala's Bistro to Elvis Presley and ended up closing the original location.

South of Beale moved into its new spot in the old Ambassador Hotel on South Main. Owners Ed and Brittany Cabigao plan to further expand the brand.

And, Hog and Hominy reopened after a fire pretty much destroyed the Brookhaven space. The look is all-new but the enthusiastic response to the spot is familiar.

Send noods

There's no wrong time for ramen. Flame Ramen opened at Union and McLean in late summer. Meanwhile, Good Fortune, a dumpling and ramen restaurant in the old South of Beale location, opened this summer as well.

More openings

When did Mendenhall get so hopping?

This strip just south of Poplar had seen the openings of Magnolia & May, Southall Cafe, and The Hen House in 2020. Opened this past year are the Austin-based Torchy's Tacos, Crumbl Cookies, and the cheese shop Greys Fine Cheese. The glut of new businesses has caused traffic problems along that road.

Also new is PantaKelly English's Spanish fare/gin bar in the old Restaurant Iris spot. Paramount opened on Front Street, with chef Derk Meitzler taking on the menu. At the Hyatt Centric Downtown, two new spots opened: the Latin-fare restaurant CIMAS and the rooftop bar Beck & Call. Both offer spectacular views of the river.Crosstown Concourse gained two new restaurants as well — both from the Wolf River Hospitality Group. Wolf River Brisket took over the Next Door space, while Abner's Famous Chicken Tenders moved into the Saucy Chicken spot.

Complicated Pilgrim and Tiger & Peacock opened in the Memphian hotel in Overton Square. The spots feature elaborate decor, particularly the rooftop bar Tiger & Peacock. "More is more, and if it's a little bit gaudy, that adds to the character," said Eldon Pico, the Memphian's general manager.

In Binghampton, two new spots opened: Nick Scott's Salt/Soy and the ice cream/bubble tea parlor Sugar Ghost. And, Bartlett gained a new spot, Biscuits & Jam, from Monique Williams, one of the founders of Trap Fusion.

Coming up

Restaurant Iris is set to open in its new spot at the Laurelwood Shopping Center this spring. Felicia Suzanne's is opening in the old Spindini, and Bog & Barley, an upscale Irish restaurant, will be opening in East Memphis.

Read the full article at the Memphis Business Journal